Buyers Guide To The 206 (Thanks go to REVS for most of the information in this article):

Yes, we all know that the 206 can at times look a little bit girly! However, with a little bit of thought and attention, you can slap bit body kits on and 18’s (they go straight on!). it’s not just the hottest versions that are the business… there’s little difference between the 1.1 and the 2.0 Gti. Prices start at about £4000 and that gets you a base model, due for it’s first MOT, 30,000 odd miles and just waiting for the first mods to be splashed on it!

The only downside, is it’s not up with the old 205Gti on the road especially at high speed. However, things can always be improved on. Buy the best model that you can afford. The 1.1 is slow (no surprise there then!). It won’t even clock 100mph. It’s the 0-60mph that’s not so good, over 16 seconds! The 1.4 is best described as lively… 106mph and 14.4 seconds to 60. The 1.6 is much more with it… 115mph, and 0-60 in 12.5 seconds. This is the 8 valve, the 16 valver is 123mph and 9.5 seconds to 60.

Then we’re onto the daddy, the 2.0 Gti. 137bph, it’s good for 131mph and 60 is seen in 8.4 seconds.

Squeals: From cold, some 206’s have a nasty habit of squealing when starting. It’s usually down to dirt in the power steering and alternator drive belt. Self-lubricating belts are available, which do help, and some owners have fitted under trays from other model to keep the dirt of the belt.

Gearbox: There have been a handful of owners who’ve had gearboxes fail completely, although the reasons aren’t clear yet! The most common problem is that the shift gradually gets stiffer, until it’s only possible to get third and forth. The problem starts with the shift from first to second, and could mean the ‘box is going to need replacing! Not cheap!!

Front Suspension Arms: Hard-driven, high mileage 206’s might be suffering from wear and tear in the front suspension. The symptom is clonking over bumps and a looser feel to the front end. The cure is gonna cost you about £100 per side as the arms will need replacing. These do however come with bushed and ball joints already fitted.

Front Struts: The 206 suspension has loads of travel, and is good for a lowering job. However, the job is made trickier due to the fact that the strut is really tight with the strut tower. This makes it more difficult to remove and replace the struts.

Lights: Very expensive if they need replacing. You’re talking about £70 from a Pug main dealer, so look for any damage. Rear lights can fill with water due to manufacturing faults.

Wiring: the 206’s wiring is multiplexed, which mean that the 16 signals are sent via one wire to operate all the various electrical goodies. You need an extremely good electrical company to fit extra alarms etc. Luckily, all models have a basic immobiliser as standard, the XS and GLX models upwards have an alarm as well!”

Diesel Engines: Specialists are beginning to get enquires from owners of 2.0 Hdi’s that have started running on just three cylinders. Each time the fault has been a melted piston. These are extremely rare cases, but it’s worth listening for misfires.

Passenger seat: Does the passenger seat slide ok? If not, it could be because a silver coloured pin on the frame has popped out. It only needs pushing back in, but it could be a good bargaining point. You can see it with the seat cushion pulled forward, which also exposes a chubby box!

Rear Suspension: No problems so far, but the older 306 does wear it’s similar design rear suspension. This shows up in negative camber (the wheels sloping in at the top!) on the rear wheels. Costs a bloody bomb if it goes and the rear bearings need replacing!